2 weeks, 3,400 km road trip through the South West of the USA. Start in San Francisco, then camping in Yosemite Valley, Sequoia National Park and Death Valley. Two nights in Las Vegas then again camping at the Grand Canyon with a day trip to Monument Valley. Last two nights camping in Mojave National Park and San Bernandino National Forest and finally two days in Los Angeles.
From San Francisco to Yosemite National Park 
07 June 2015
In the morning, we packed our stuff and checked-out from our accommodation in San Francisco. Luckily, we went to the car rental three hours early and indeed got a car earlier than expected. We also took a larger car category for a small extra fee – and got a Toyota Corolla.
Afterward, we drove to the East, out of the city and directly to a Walmart where we were looked upon curiously and asked about our camping plans. We bought two cheap beach air mattresses to sleep on (let’s see if we regret this decision), one thick blanket, one pot and charcoal and igniters. Of course, we also bought an abundance of food. In cans (e.g. also milk) and food which will stay good after being in high and low temperatures. In addition, we bought a lot of water.
Nearby, we found a Nike Outlet where we had a short shopping excursion – and shortly later another Factory Outlet.
Now the journey to Yosemite Valley could start. It was nearly 7 p.m. when we headed out from the second outlet and it was already getting dark. When the sun set, we drove along a winding but beautiful street that kept us awake, though.
When we arrived in Yosemite Valley, we did not see anything because it was pitch-dark. Luckily we found the way to and inside the camping ground “Upper Pines” without problems though. The reception was already closed, which is why we drove directly to our camping spot and started setting up our tent. Immediately our neighbor came over to help us – equipped with a hammer for the tent pegs, good lighting and a hand at putting up the tent. How kind!
When we started inflating our cheap mattresses – one of them had a hole. Damn it! We fixed it with chewing gum but that did not really work… It will be a hard night.
Luckily we bought a thick blanked because it’s already cold.
Yosemite National Park
08 June 2015
The Yosemite National Park covers an area of more than 3,000 km² and was once formed by glaciers. In 2008, Alex Honnold climbed the “Regular Northwest Face” of the famous Half Dome in free solo.
After a very uncomfortable night for one of us, we got up at 7 a.m. It was also very cold which is why we decided to forgo the shower (especially since we had no idea where it would be).
After jam and peanut butter breads, and equipped with hiking pants, hiking boots, fleece, insulating jacket and rain jacket, we headed off to walk a part of the Valley Loop (approx. 12 km).
With the shuttle bus, we reached the first station. It got really hot as soon as the sun came out – why did we bring all those jackets?
First we passed the Yosemite falls. Unfortunately there were loads of tourists, but it was beautiful nevertheless.
Following a nice hiking path through pine and red wood trees (a smell like in Tuscany) and along a river, we were hiking to the foot of El Capitan. We even saw some climbers that were climbing the rock.
On the following way, we crossed some beautiful locations.
A bridge was our turning point and we had a break nearby. We put our feet into the ice cold water and ate cereal bars and apples
After the break, we walked on to the Bridal Veil waterfalls. Very impressing. From there we took a shuttle bus since it got really hot and sunny.
Arriving back to the campground with the shuttle bus, we finally checked-in correctly and found out that the only possibility to shower was going to a swimming pool and pay 5 USD entrance fee.
This is why we decided to wash ourselves in the nearby river.
When we arrived at the car, we equipped ourselves with towel, bathing stuff and biodegradable soap. We hiked through the forest to the river. I went first into the ice-cold water and quickly washed. We suddenly saw a snake climbing a tree trunk in the water, just where I was a few seconds before. I panicked shortly, but then stayed in the water to wash my hair.
Without deadly bites we got clean and went back to our tent.
It was already 5 p.m. and we started lighting the fire. After initial difficulties, we succeeded and cooked macaroni with tomato sauce and canned vegetables. It was yummy indeed. Afterwards, we baked some pita breads on the hot coals – also super yummy.
Another neighbor offered us to put our stuff on his fire when he saw our difficulties in igniting the fire. How nice again! We gave him a test pitta bread as a thank you 🙂
Now we are lying inside our tent after putting all food and cosmetics into bear-safe containers. We hope that the air mattress that we repaired with more chewing gum and tape holds the air overnight. While falling asleep, we enjoy the guitar sounds from nearby.
Good night my dears.
From Yosemite National Park to Sequoia National Park
09 June 2015
After packing up and having breakfast, we started around 9 a.m. We stopped again at a beautiful lookout.
The surrounding nature changed very quickly. From dense coniferous forest in the national park to Mediterranean bushes and trees to yellow dried meadows on hills and dusty haze in the distance. It was over 30°C! In Fresno, we went to Walmart to buy two new air mattresses (one as a spare) and some coal.
We continued until we came to a forest with redwoods, and it cooled down to below 20°C. First we drove a bit inside Kings Canyon National Park, then we continued to Sequoia National Park.
We had to brake hard after a corner. There were cars with hazard lights on in both lanes in front of us. We immediately jumped out of the car, but unfortunately the black bear and cubs were already gone! What a pity!
When a Ranger car had to brake hard with squeaking and smoke on the opposite side, everyone drove on.
At the Lodgepole Visitor Center, we asked about available campsites and then drove to the Lodgepole Campground. We were allowed to choose our place by ourselves and found a fantastic pitch by the river.
After setting up the tent and luckily without rain, we finally went to take a shower. $1 for three minutes – hurry, hurry!
Finally fresh again, we started the fire and we made rice out of a bag and then Cheese Macaroni.
Now we are sitting around our nice campfire.
Sequoia National Park
10 June 2015
The Sequoia National Park is located in the Sierra Nevada, has subalpine to alpine climate and scores with mammoth trees
Yesterday we were in bed at nine and were able to sleep really long today.
At nine we went to the free shuttle. It’s really a great thing that there is something like that in the national parks here.
First we went to the General Sherman Tree, the largest tree in the world by volume. It consists of 1,487 cubic meters of wood and is more than 2,000 years old. At 83.8 meters, it is as tall as the Statue of Liberty.
We then hiked the Congress and Alta Trail to Crescent Meadow. That was wonderful. We walked past many incredibly huge sequoias and almost alone.
In a meadow, we then saw a black bear about 20 meters away. It ate comfortably and ignored us. That was awesome! Finally, we saw a bear!
Further along the meadow, we saw a brown black bear.
And at Crescent Meadow we first saw a brown black bear and when we walked around it, we discovered another one sleeping hiding behind trees. Also another, bigger one, right next to the path which was maybe 4 meters away.
Now we’re sitting in the car in front of our tent and wait for the storm to pass. Luckily, we had great weather during our hike! And now it’s hailing
It just didn’t stop raining, so we went to take a shower. After a quick meal in the car, the rain lessened until it almost stopped at 7pm. We got a visit from a curious deer right at our place. In the evening, we took a few cool pictures and then we went to bed.
Black bears have black, brown, red or blond fur and can weigh up to 150 kg. Mostly they eat plants and insects, occasionally meat. Because they have an excellent sense of smell, all food, toiletries, and anything with a smell must be unpacked from the car and placed in bear-proof boxes. Otherwise, bears could break into cars.
Giant sequoias are only found in the wild on the western slopes of the Sierra Nevada. They grow up to 95 meters high with a diameter of 17 meters. They can live up to 3,200 years and are among the fastest growing and oldest trees. Their thick bark protects the trees from forest fires and insects. Due to their far-reaching, shallow roots, they have good access to water.
Redwoods (coast redwood) also belong to the Sequoia family, but are thinner and taller. They grow up to 110 meters high with a diameter of 7 meters. The largest tree in the world is a redwood.
From Sequoia National Park to Death Valley National Park
11 June 2015
After the coldest night of my life (almost 0°C) we got up at 6 a.m. to flee the wet and cold at 7 a.m. sharp. On the way, we stopped at the Tunnel Log. The hail from last night was still lying around there.
As soon as the sun came out it got warm and we stopped for breakfast on the way down (from 2,042 m to 412 m).
After a long drive through desert landscape, we arrived at Stovepipe Wells Village around 4pm. We bought souvenirs, felt the heat of over 40°C and filled up our water bottles. Then we continued to the Mesquite Flat Sand Dunes.
Shortly before 5pm, we arrived at the Furnace Creek campsite (-60 hm below sea level) and looked for a great shady spot. The place is almost empty. In the evening, two more families came.
We put on our bathing suits, smeared on sunscreen, pitched the tent, and improvised a shower. When a chipmunk got too pushy, we put all the food items back in the car. After a rest, we put on the fire and I prepared some dough for flatbread.
Suddenly, a super strong wind came up, and we had to quickly put everything that was about to fly away into the car. In the distance, we saw the rain over the mountains. I was really scared. The valley is actually one of the driest areas on earth. After dinner, it started to rain. In the washroom, I talked to one man who checked the weather on the internet. Rain all night but 0 inches high. Great! And our waterproof outer tent won’t hold up in that wind.
Well at least it’s hot. We’ll try without the outer tent..
Death Valley National Park
12 June 2015
The Death Valley National Park is located in the Mojave desert. The Badwater Basin in the National Park is the lowest point of North America at 86 m below sea level. The park is also an international Dark Sky Park. The hottest temperature ever recorded on earth was measured in Furnace Creek on July 10, 1913 with 56.7°C.
After the rain had stopped at night, it was still super, super hot. We woke up early in the morning, took a shower in our self-made shower and drove off.
First we went to Badwater Basin, a salt lake and the lowest point in North America at -86 m below sea level. I had imagined the salt flats differently – rather honeycomb crystallized.
Next we were at the Natural Bridge. Even at just before ten it was already too hot to walk much here. On the way there, a coyote suddenly appeared on the road.
We continued quickly to Devils Golf Course in our air-conditioned car. Wind and rain have shaped this landscape in this way. Also Artists Drive was a one-way street with great rock formations off the main road. Unfortunately, it was already too hot to continue walking into the Golden Canyon.
Our next stop was at Zabriskie Point – there were a couple of tourists there and enjoyed the stunning view. We then drove on through the Twenty Mule Team Canyon to Dantes View.
At around 2 p.m., we had lunch at the campsite and it started to be really windy again and you could see rain showers in the distance again. We decided to buy a pool ticket and spent the afternoon at the only bearable spot in the valley.
After we cooked dinner on site we went back to the pool and lay there until it got dark and longer and read.
After a really good, unlimited shower, we lay down on a table one seat down and admired the cloudless sky with millions of stars. After sunset we could already see bright Venus to the west from the pool. In the darkness of the campsite we could see the Milky Way and lots of shooting stars.
You have never really seen the stars till you have seen them in Death Valley. The clear, limpid atmosphere brings them very close. You feel you could reach up and pull them down.
Bessie Johnson
At least it’s no longer raining or windy. It’s still hot though. But a wet towel as a duvet keeps us cool. Good Night!
From Death Valley National Park to Las Vegas
13 June 2015
We were woken up early by the sun and packed up. Before we drove off we showered again under our construction. Already at 8 o’clock we sat in the car to Vegas 😀 strange to get up without a clock. At least the sky in Death Valley is completely cloud-free today.
We first drove through Las Vegas and were at Lake Mead around 12 o’clock, that’s the lake that is dammed by the Hoover Dam. We hopped in briefly, but the ground was super muddy and rocky – not so great.
After my heel injury (stupid rock in the water) was bandaged (thanks Gisela for the waterproof bandages – great!) we drove to the Hoover Dam. We parked and walked over quite quickly – there wasn’t much to see and it was extremely hot. The dam dams the Colorado River (which also flows through the Grand Canyon) and sits right on the border of Nevada and Arizona.
After we bought something cool to drink we went looking for our hostel. It is located on Las Vegas Boulevard north of the Stratosphere.
The check-in went great and that’s why we directly went to the Bellagio. You can park anywhere here for free. I won $4 at the casino with a $1 bet! We gambled everything away again 😛 but we left with a $0 loss.
After a trip to the Paris across the street, we looked for something to eat by car, but got so lost that there were gyros and burgers across from the hostel. Also good 🙂
In the evening, we were partying with people from the hostel. There was a stretch limousine to the LAX Club at the Luxor.
14 June 2015
After breakfast we chilled and then went to the strip. It’s so hot here that you really have to motivate yourself to get out of the reasonably air-conditioned room!
First we stayed at Mandalay Bay. Then we went over to the Luxor, which has an Egyptian touch. After that we are in the Excalibur.
Because we almost died of hunger, we drove downtown to an all-you-can-eat Chinese buffet.
After almost drowning in Walmart and a break at the hostel, we went out in the evening and parked at the Bellagio again.
With a view of Paris, we watched the water show. Then, we walked through Caesar’s Palace to the Mirage to see a volcano show in front of the hotel.
Next stop was the Venetian directly opposite. We both liked that best. Really nice and definitely emptier in the middle of the night than the real Venice 😀
We were so tired that we ran back to the car. Goodnight!
15 June 2015
After breakfast we walked to the Stratosphere today. We got into the pool for free with a card from one of the hostel staff. Really refreshing and chilled 🙂
In the evening we went back to the strip and looked at New York New York. It’s really nice from the outside!
Next we went to the Las Vegas entrance sign – less spectacular than expected…
The last stop in Las Vegas was downtown. We were dead tired, but we still drove to Fremont Street. There you can see the old casinos. The entire street was covered for $70 million.
Unfortunately, we didn’t win anything at the old slot machines in “The D” either 🙁
Good night Fabulous Las Vegas!! We’re really done.
From Las Vegas to Grand Canyon National Park
16 June 2015
After getting up very early, at half past seven we headed for … WALMART! Our favorite spot and activity in America! After our shopping trip, we drove towards the Grand Canyon.
We were a little scared of getting a campsite as everything was full according to the internet. The first place already looked very full, but it was still far outside the national park and we risked driving further. The second one was a few minutes further and there was still enough space here. However, at $29 per night it would have been really expensive for the distance to the park entrance. After a long queue of cars at the park entrance, we drove into the park and to the Mather Campground, which is where we wanted to go. It is one of two courses in the national park and is the closest to the sights. We saw mooses on the way there!!
Although it said “NO VACANCY” in front of the campsite, we asked at the reception – and lo and behold: We got something for three nights. Except that we have to move tomorrow, perfect!
After we set up the tent, we took the shuttle to the visitor center and then walked around a bit. The first view of the Grand Canyon was outstanding. We didn’t imagine it to be that big and gigantic!!
The Grand Canyon is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and is part of the larger Colorado Plateau, a region characterized by its colorful and layered rock formations. Carved over millions of years by the powerful Colorado River, the canyon stretches approximately 446 kilometers long and reaches depths of over a 1.6 kilometers.
It has been inhabited by Native American tribes for thousands of years, who consider it a sacred place with deep spiritual connections.
We took some great pictures at a slightly exposed spot (my fear of heights is happy -aah!).
We continued along a short path and then drove home with the shuttle bus. In the evening there was roasted old bread and pasta in tomato soup (well, rather sauce). Now we look at the gigantic starry sky again through the open tent roof.
17 June 2015
In the morning, we took the shuttle to Hermit’s Trail and hiked under the ridge for about an hour and a half. We also saw some fossils.
When we realized that the view was unfortunately only on a small side arm, weed turn back. At the top of the edge we walked a bit with a great view of the canyon.
In the afternoon, we went back to the campsite, rummaged around and slept because we were really tired. A moose ran right over our pitch, unfortunately I only saw it from the top of the tent.
At nine o’clock we went to the ‘Star Party’. Every year in June, astronomers from all over America meet, set up their small or large telescopes and thus offer visitors great insights. We took part in a constellation tour where we learned where different stars, planets and constellations are and how to use them to determine your geographical position or the time of year. We were also shown the Milky Way and the edges of our solar system.
We also looked into a few telescopes and saw galaxies and stars. We found Saturn and its ring most fascinating.
To end the day, we watched the sun set above the Grand Canyon.
Day trip to Monument Valley
18 June 2015
We left early in the morning at half past six. After seeing some moose and stopping at Desert View Point, we headed out of the national park into the Nabajo Reservation. Over a short distance, located in Utah, we drove into Monument Valley, where we arrived at about eleven.
Monument Valley is located on the Arizona-Utah border and is characterized by towering sandstone buttes, dramatic rock formations, and wide open plains. The landscape has become famous from numerous Western movies, e.g. “Stagecoach” (1939) or “The Searchers” (1956), both with John Wayne.
John Ford shot a few films there with John Wayne and the Marlboro commercials also played here.
Since it had rained recently, the ground was overgrown with green. You drive a 17-mile circular route yourself, which was really exciting with our Toyota 😀
For this picture you can also sacrifice a bit of money as a tourist:
On the way back we stopped at Navajo National Monument where we could see houses built into the rock where the ancestors of the Hopi once lived.
The Navajo National Monument is a protected area which preserves significant archaeological sites and the rich cultural heritage of the Navajo people. The monument encompasses three major cliff dwellings – Betatakin, Keet Seel, and Inscription House – that show the ancient Puebloan civilization’s remarkable architectural achievements. The Puebloan culture emerged around 100 AD and continued until the 15th century and includes e.g., the tribes of Hopi and Zuni – which both continue to maintain their cultural traditions and live in Pueblo-style villages.
After a short stop at the elephant feet we saw the sign for dinosaur tracks and stopped there. A man gave us a short tour and showed us footprints of T-Rexes, pterosaurs and others, skulls, dinosaur eggs, whole skeletons and kaka. Everything petrified.
It is a pity that this site cannot be secured. People keep coming and taking something with them. The country is in the Nabajo Reservation and the state is not allowed to intervene there (if I understood that correctly).
At Desert View, at the eastern park entrance, we watched an impressive sunset over the Grand Canyon.
We arrived at our seat when it was already dark and cooked spaghetti with tomato sauce.
Good night from the bonfire below the stars.
From Grand Canyon National Park to Mojave National Preserve
19 June 2015
After watching the ravens and squirrels in the morning as they happily ate the food and garbage that our new neighbors had left outside, we drove off early towards the Mojave Desert.
Before that I visited the bird mom again in the women’s toilet, who always sat quietly in her nest 🙂
The drive to the Mojave Desert was quite exhausting and we also broke our temperature record with 118°F = 47.8°C. We got information in Needles and then drove into the desert.
A long, unpaved road took us first to Hole-In-The-Wall, a visitor center, which unfortunately is only open on Saturdays from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. :-).
Next we went to the Midhills Campground. A few years ago a brush fire burned down the campsite. We were all alone there, you had to pay in an envelope that you put in. A little scary but beautiful. Of course there was no shower and only an outhouse.
Mojave National Preserve, located in the Mojave Desert of California, is a large protected area covering over 1.6 million acres of desert landscapes. It is known for its rugged beauty, striking geological formations, and unique ecosystem.
We chose the most beautiful place and rested for a while. Luckily we had time and up on the mountains the temperature was really pleasant with 38°C and wind.
After the meal we enjoyed the great sunset and the starry sky again. We can now find Venus, Jupiter, Saturn and the North Star without any problems 🙂
Goodnight!!
From Mojave National Preserve to San Bernardino National Forest
20 June 2015
This morning at half past six we packed up and left. After ages on the dirt road we are first to the Cima Dome where there is the largest concentration of Joshua Trees. These trees only grow in the Mojave Desert. We saw a roadrunner and scavenging vultures or the like.
The next stop was Kelso Station, a visitor center (open this time).
After that we drove to the Kelso sand dunes which make a humming sound. This is because the silicon granules in the sand rub against each other when the wind blows. Since it was really brutally sunny, we didn’t walk far in. We also met a desperate woman who cursed while sitting in the heat of her car and waited for her husband. We also saw cool animal tracks.
Passing huge granite rocks we left the desert and headed towards Los Angeles.
After a stop at Walmart and a car wash (our car might have been dirty :-D) and our first traffic jam, we arrived at Applewhite Campground and found a place despite Father’s Day tomorrow. The campsite here is really not nice. Totally dirty and weird people. But for $10 per tent per night and for those in LA it’s really ok.
Now we are planning our short stay in LA.
Buenas Noches
From San Bernardino National Forest to Los Angeles
21 June 2015
Today we got up early and packed our things at the campsite. Then we headed towards Los Angeles to our hostel. There we first unloaded all our luggage and freshened up, because there were no showers on the campsite again! The hostel is located in Hollywood right on the Walk of Fame – very cool!
Roadtrip Review
After 3,870 kilometers in California, Nevada, Arizona and Utah, we finally (unfortunately!) returned our car at the airport in Los Angeles!
- Biggest surprise: seeing bears, the size of the Grand Canyon
- Biggest disappointment: Applewhite Campground, Walmart airbeds (out of 5 airbeds, 3 were already broken when bought them!)
- Most beautiful campsite: Sequoia, even if it was freezing cold. Death Valley was cool too.
- Weather: 0°C in Sequoia at over 2,000 m, 45°C in Death Valley at -80 m, also rain in the desert
- Also: off-road roads are cool but exhausting, cooking with a saucepan over fire works great (if the fire is big enough :-P)
- Street-Style: From the six-lane freeway to the unpaved road, everything was there
There is no better way to spend two weeks in the Southwest of the U.S.!
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